
I went to Denver last weekend, for an impromptu two-day vacation, buying a plane ticket at the lastest last minute that I’ve ever made a decision at. I could do this because the cost to fly up there was cheap ($112 or so, amazing for a ticket bought six hours before takeoff) and because my dad was going to be there for a conference, so I already had a place to stay.
The hotel issue is important, since the city was packed on Saturday and Sunday. There was the World Series, of course, but there were other things going on: a hockey game, a football game (on Monday), an anti-war protest, some sort of bike event that brought a lot of people dressed as bananas to downtown, and, oh yes, a conference that attracted thousands of geologists to the city. I was looking at hotel rates right before I left, just in case something happened with the room I was planning on staying in, and average hotel rooms in normally non-flashy, mild-mannered corporate hotel chains downtown were going for $500 to $600 each, which I believe is a record. Parking, too, was overpriced, but this wasn’t a problem I had to deal with.
Despite the fact that they are located in the same time zone, in adjacent states, Denver and Albuquerque are completely different places. The feel of each city, determined by the built and natural environments that characterize each, is very different. The first thing I notice when I get to the central part of Denver is, this is where the brick houses with pointy roofs and more than one story live. Also, trees. ABQ is missing some — no, make it a lot of that. There are valid historical and environmental reasons for this, of course, which I am too tired to really go into right now, but it’s always surprising to me just how different the two places are. (This may be less apparent if you drive between the two places, since you have to pass through Greater Suburbia to get to the centers of both cities — the outskirts of each, at least, are alike in the way such places are alike everywhere in the U.S. It’s the centers that seem very different, which becomes more apparent when you fly.)
Theoretically, I thought that I might be able to get some research done while I was up there. I achieved one thing on my to-do list — getting a Denver Public Library card, so that I can remotely access some of their research databases — but, once I got there, I gave up on getting anything done, save walking around, observing, and taking some pictures. I’ve been so busy since school started that I haven’t had many chances to relax, so, once I got out of ABQ, I gave up on my ideas of being productive.
So, I walked around, watched a lot of people, did some quick surveys of the neighborhood /area I’m in the process of writing another paper about, ate a lot of meals with my dad, drank some good seasonal beer, and generally had a good time.
Some observations:
Everyone seemed to be in a very good mood. Denver takes its sports very seriously, and I expected people to be a bit dour, since the Rockies were down 2-0 on Saturday afternoon (a situation that, as you know, did not improve over the next several days). Yet, I think most people in Colorado never expected them to get to the World Series, like, ever, so people seemed content to just enjoy the moment, even though the Rockies ended up losing pretty badly.
My plane from ABQ to Denver should have been named the Sports Fan Express. There were logos everywhere to be seen: on hats, on shiny nylon jackets, on t-shirts, you name it. I was sitting next to a big Packers fan who somehow got routed through ABQ on his way to the game. He showed me all of the good-luck charms he brought with him — his lucky Packers troll doll, a plastic helmet, some coins he’d owned through several championship seasons, and other amulets and tokens of football-fan brujeria. However, he did not have the expected cheesehead hat, since, he said, “those aren’t very lucky.”
I was looking at some of the new condo/apartment/”loft” buildings going up in downtown, and I noticed a difference, based on apartment price, in the way each building uses its ground floor and sidewalk space. The more expensive the apartment, the less each building is designed to interact with passersby. One new apartment building, where units began in the “low” $1 million range, had no signs, entrances, or other items on the ground floor to indicate whether it was an office building, a place to live, or just a large, unfriendy hunk of concrete and brushed stainless steel. The benches on the sidewalks out front faced away from the building, towards the parked cars on the street. If they faced inward, this would make the sidewalk more of a public, friendly space — people sitting on these benches could interact with people walking by. Yet, placed as they are, the chances that there will ever be people sitting on these benches is low — who wants to sit and watch a parked car. Many of these higher-end buildings seem designed so that you will want to walk by them as quickly as possible — they’re for people who want the status of living in the city without actually having to interact with it. I don’t think this is a particularly worthy goal.
Given the higher land and labor costs in Denver, how is it that coffee — from local and chain places alike — ends up being consistently cheaper than it is at certain establishments in ABQ? I drank a lot of coffee while I was up there — it’s the fuel for wandering around aimlessly on autumn weekends, after all — and I don’t think any of the cups I bought were as much as a small cup of coffee from the Satellite. The cup pictured above, from the Tattered Cover coffee bar, for example, was only $1.45 — it would have been at least 50 cents more, had it been served to me by a barista wearing a black uniform. (The setting for the above photo is the small smoking patio outside the bookstore.)
Some more photos from this weekend:

Benches inside Union Station. No one was waiting for a train this afternoon — it was just me and the guy buffing the floors inside there on Sunday.

Part of the sign of the Fontius Building, on the 16th Street Mall. Since this building was just purchased by a developer, who knows how long this sign will remain up.

Abandoned tobacco — tobacco for the quality people — on Curtis Street.